Priming drywall how many coats

You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Painting Solved! Don't want to do it yourself? Get free, no-commitment estimates from pro painters near you.

Find local painters. Use the following primer paint situations to determine how many coats of primer to use. If you are painting a light color over a white wall: You will need likely only one coat of primer on the walls before painting.

If you are going to paint over bare drywall or unfnished wood: You will want to use 2 coats of primer as the first coat of primer may soak a bit into the material coating the walls. If the old color shows through after this layer is dry, add a second coat of primer. Using a tinted primer is another option. By neutralizing the underlying color, tinted primer can cut the amount of primer you need from two layers to one. Most unpainted surfaces require two coats of primer.

These areas will absorb paint at different rates, leaving you with a blotchy paint job. Using two coats of primer solves this problem because the surface will absorb most of the first coat, while the second coat finishes the work by filling in any remaining thin spots.

Oil-based primers generally perform better on bare wood, but water-based primers can work well on smooth softwood surfaces. For painted wood, use an oil-based primer. Apply the first coat, then allow 12 to 24 hours of drying time for an oil-based primer or 1 to 2 hours for a water-based primer. When the first coat is dry, apply the second if necessary. Painting latex over oil: sand like a banshee scratch every bit to create a bond for new paint , or use the Mother of all Toxic materials, de-glosser.

This stuff evaporates like water on a red-hot skillet. Wear your respirator!! There are 2 sizes of the best product going, but if you are doing more than a small piece of furniture, get large to save money. This does not fill large holes. You need wood filler for that. This is a generic one coat paint of brown semi-gloss rolled onto some primer.

The brown looked fine when wet. Now look:. I can really use your advice. The board will be in two bathrooms and 2 bedrooms. My plan is to paint the beadboard with Kilz premium high hide stain blocking primer. My questions are:. Is it ok to have the printer tinted? I am planning to paint the same color with latex over the primer. No, and yes, and yes. The beadboard I know of is already primed at Home Depot etc, but if it is not, yes you really must and the primer you mentioned is excellent.

Both sides? Not necessary unless you have leftover primer and nothing to do with it, then sure, why not? Cannot hurt, especially in a moist environment. Tinting is ok, but if you do it yourself, be careful. Paint stores know how much tint can be added without affecting the property of the primer: too much and you lose your sealant properties… not so good. Better to be sure. Cannot trust advertising. Grays cover so well—almost always the best. So plan on primer plus 2 top coats.

Hope this helps. If not, let me know. We are about to paint 2 bedrooms, both currently painted white. One will be a gray color, the other a sky blue. Can we just put primer over the test areas? Thanks for your help. Good luck! If you use an oil-based primer on softwoods can you then use a latex paint over the oil based primer? Good luck. We used Zinsser Cover Stain primer on the exterior of our home which has previously had multiple coats of an oil-based stain.

The primer was allowed to dry for 30 minutes to 1 hour as stated on the can. We then applied a latex paint. The paint and primer have set for 5 days but the paint can be scratched off to reveal the primer underneath. The primer seems to be adhering well to the siding.

The humidity has been high in our area during this time frame. Could it be that it will just take longer to cure or did something go wrong? Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Oh boy, sorry to hear this. I will write to Rust-oleam the makers of Zinsser and ask for you…I may have more power since I help them and ask nothing in return.

Yes, do wait a while and keep checking in various areas. What paint exactly did you put on? The problem is more likely with that. An interesting test: take a blow dryer and really heat up a few square inches, let rest, cool, then test adhesion.

It is supposed to be a highly rated paint. Brad, I have wood fir outdoor steps that primed and painted 1. They have partial sun exposure.

Should I use the Royal again or is there something better I only need 1 qt? Thank you. I cannot remember if is for exterior, but if it is, yes, go for it. I would use Benjamin Moores Block Ou t an oil-based exterior only primer.

But the main point is that the prep really determines how long the job will last: you should not be out there in less than 5 years, unless you have very high traffic and intense sun, snow, etc. Scrape the loose paint very well: on our site is info on how and why and on the scrapers and how to file them a video of me sharpening.. Key point: remove loose paint, create bonding with primer and use the best deck paint you can afford.

Good luck, b. Same reply! Do I have to paint a topcoat of latex paint or can I leave it as is? It has a whitewashed look to it as I applied the primer with a brush. Yes, I know that look. Well, you could of course if you like it, but just know that it will take a beating: handprints cannot be washed etc. Next primer would not need to be so extreme… just Kilz Original or such.

Hi, Brad! Thanks for providing such an informative posting! I did have to apply more than one coat of KILZ to completely eliminate the appearance of the water stains. Do you have any idea where I went wrong? Are there any steps that I can take so that the treated areas are not noticeably different in appearance?

I can provide a photo if that will help. You probably did not need multiple coats, but no harm was done. Great that you have to original paint, but your problem is that this is my best guess that the old paint had faded.

Anyway, yes a photo will help somewhat and I can post for others to see, but my advice is to repaint with a new ceiling paint, or if you still have a lot of your paint, do the entire ceiling.

That will be fine. I love them both! I love your article, very helpful! In here u have mentioned sanding the primer, is this necessary if I am painting over stained but lightly sanded down kitchen cabinets? And also what grit of sandpaper should I use? Then do I wash or tack cloth them again before painting? Thank you! Yes indeed. Then wipe with damp cloth or tack cloth a couple of times.

You should get no dust on your finger after the wipe down is dry. Then you are all set. Have a look at the article about trim paint: I love the Advance from ben moore. Practice first with it, then you will see the magic: no brush strokes witha water-based paint. I am making a utility box cover with a birdhouse on top. Will this be a good process? Things get wet and the primer will degrade but very slowly.