289 camshafts which is best

Gotgas , Nov 16, Joined: Feb 27, Posts: 13, Profile Page. The Comp Cams Extreme Energy is good. It's a dual pattern and will work well with your setup. Won't sound "rad" but you'll appreciate the low end oomf! X38 , Nov 16, Joined: Apr 17, Posts: Profile Page. Joined: Nov 20, Posts: 42 Profile Page. Roorda , Nov 16, Joined: Jun 5, Posts: 8, Profile Page. Well, try the Performer RPM then - it shifts the powerband up a bit.

They definitely like split pattern cams Still, the cam I ended up with was pretty far out there Flat Ernie , Nov 16, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account?

No, create an account now. Yes, my password is: Forgot your password? Solutions are often obvious once you get the questions right. Tags: None. August 25, , AM. Re: ford cam choice Joe - welcome, sounds like a really neat project. Many questions Are you running the stock iron small chamber cylinder heads? Stock valve train - or are you putting in screw in studs and guide plates so you can run adjustable roller rockers? Do you know what the compression ratio is on your engine?

Are you interested in doing a roller cam conversion or are you going to stick with flat tappet? If staying with flat tappet are you aware you need to run special oil, or additives to help the flat tappets work - today's oils aren't what they used to be - and are not friendly to flat tappet cams if used without additives to increase the "zddp" levels zinc and phosphorous were removed to improve emissions.

A great option is to call up the guys out in Denver at Cam research - they can set you up with a great cam, and send it to you already broken in on their machine - the only place I know of that does this. Comment Post Cancel. Reply 1 on: Today at AM? Reply with quoteQuote Joe - welcome, sounds like a really neat project. Thanks for the super quick response. I was hoping to. Again I was hoping to. This is a super budget thing. I will be moving it once it's done.

I have no clue. From what I gather from the guy I got it from it was an ordinary 2bbl motor from an unknown vehicle. Said it runs. Again with a light budget and my relative ignorance here I don't know. Does this include the synthetics? Re: ford cam choice If you're just moving it anyway, just get it running and send it down the road If it needs a cam, hit up your local parts store and throw a rebuilder cam in it so it runs, and then ship it Whiskey for my men Your cam and lifters will arrive broken in, ready to install, with the lifters labelled so they go back on the same cam lobe when you install them They know what works with stock components.

You need to stay pretty conservative with lift to make sure the stock valve train stays healthy for the long haul, duration the number of crankshaft degrees the valves are open for is what gives you the "sound" of a more radical cam.

You don't have to have high lift to go with your long duration - this is what the "thumper" cams are about. Cam Research is your friend. As far as the rest of the engine - sounds like you purchased a "ran good when pulled" used engine, which hopefully will be fine for you. If you want to run synthetic oil - you still have to worry about the zddp levels to keep your flat tappet cam happy for the long haul.

This is less of a concern with a conservative cam than a high spring pressure high lift long duration "race" cam It's cheap insurance. When it comes to camshafts, there are probably more misconceptions than there are facts. To understand how to pick a camshaft and valvetrain, we must first understand how it all works. Choosing a camshaft profile is rooted in how we want an engine to perform. Are we building a street engine where low- and midrange torque are important, or are we building a high-revving racing engine that makes peak torque in the high revs?

A popular misconception is that flat tappets ride squarely on the cam lobe. Flat-tappet lifters ride on the cam lobe offset like this.

They spin on the lobe for less friction and uniform wear. Budget builds call for a regular timing set like this one. Contrary to popular shop talk, this is a good timing set for mild street engines because there is less chain stretch than we see with dual-roller timing sets. The up side to dual roller timing sets is less friction.

Roller lifters joined together like these from Lunati work together without the need for a spider and dog bones like we find with most roller-cam kits. This is where it gets mighty confusing for the first-time engine builder. We see words like lift, duration, lobe separation, base circle, lobe centerline angle, and valve overlap. One rule we tend to forget about in engine building is you can go with a stock camshaft grind, which all of the aftermarket manufacturers have available.

You can go with a dead stock camshaft, get a smooth idle and good low-end torque. There are mild and aggressive grinds available for 5. The nice thing about all of it is packaging.

Comp Cams and Crane, for example, offer complete camshaft and valvetrain kits that include compatible springs and cam profiles. All you have to do is order the kit and do the installation. There seems to be a greater variety of roller-tappet camshafts available out there that allow you to dial in ford performance engines. The nice thing about roller cams is the aggressiveness they offer without sacrificing idle quality and drivability.

Roller cams are better because they greatly reduce internal friction and allow for more aggressive ramp speeds and lifts, without sacrificing drivability. The roller cam is clearly a better choice for these reasons. In the old days, we had two basic choices — mechanical and hydraulic flat-tappet camshafts. We went with mechanical camshafts whenever we were going to spin the engine at high RPM.